Laos... A World of Peace (Who knew)?
When you think of Laos, what do you think of? A faraway country that you know nothing about? Or maybe you're old enough to remember how the U.S. indescriminately bombed this country during the Vietnam war. Maybe you know someone that is Lao. Have you ever talked to them about their home country?
Sonja and I are guilty of all of the above, but now... Laos has changed us. Changed us forever and in such a special way. The two day journey down the Mekong River was a prelude to the warmth, serenity and peace that we found in Luang Prabang.
I'd like to start by desribing the beauty of this area. The fabulous food and the lessons of spending time with a former monk learning about his life and what it is like being a monk. And then, I'd like to tell you about the greatest accomodation we have experienced anywhere in the world!
Luang Prabang
In the heart of Laos, the charming town of Luang Prabang welcomed us, wide-eyed with wonder and perhaps just a smidge of confusion. Armed with our cameras and an appetite for adventure, we set off to explore.
Kuang Si Falls
In the early morning of our first day we headed to the majestic Kuang Si Falls. As we approached, we could hear the roar of cascading water long before we saw it. Turning the final corner, the sight took our breath away. Turquoise pools, crystal-clear and inviting, cascaded over limestone formations. "Nature's infinity pools," we thought.
A perfect spot for a picnic lunch before heading to the upper falls, the main attraction.
There simply are no words to describe the beauty of this place. We had arrived shortly after the park opened and were fortunate to spend a few hours of bliss watching the falls, hearing its roar and feeling the mist coming off of it.
And then it happened. We had been warned about the hoardes of tourists from China that were saturating this area. We watched in disbelief as the caravans arrived and the peace was destroyed with the masses pushing and shoving past other tourists. Crossing into areas that were clearly marked as a "no go" to take their selfies. The loud yelling and screaming in Chinese. We had to leave.
We will block that from our memories and only remember the joy we felt at Kuang Si Falls... alone.
The Morning Market
The morning began with a gentle stroll through the quaint streets, where golden sunlight filtered through the trees, casting a warm glow on the French colonial buildings. "Not a bad start," as we stumbled upon a bustling morning market. The air was thick with the aroma of fresh herbs, exotic fruits, and... was that fermented fish? My stomach rumbled in response, and Sonja bravely sampled what the vendor claimed was a local delicacy. "Not for me," I chuckled to myself, sipping my freshly squeezed orange juice.
Wat Xieng Thong
During our enlightening tour of Wat Xieng Thong, led by a former monk who had traded in his meditation for a tour guide pouch, I found myself grappling with the existential question where to meet the "Orange Robe Tour." Eager to delve into the mysteries of monastic life, I approached a monk hanging up his laundry, hoping he could shed some light. Instead, he looked at me with the kind of confusion usually reserved for someone trying to explain Wi-Fi to a senior citizen and simply pointed to the vibrant orange robe fluttering in the sun. In that moment of awkwardness, I realized that even monks have laundry days—an insight that deepened my understanding of their lives: it’s not all chanting and enlightenment; sometimes, it’s just about getting your robes dry before dinner!
Street Scenes in Luang Prabang
Sitting in a corner coffee shop in LP, just watching the world go by is an experience in itself. The hustle and bustle of the volume of motorbikes. The backpacking tourists under weight of their loads. The tuk tuk's spewing their exhaust. And then their were the children. Not just walking with their parents but driving the motorbikes! As young as eight years old with their younger siblings on the back. No helmets, weaving their way through traffic. Our grandchildren ride mini-bikes... but in their back yards, not on a main street.
On The Mekong Resort
We arrived after dark. Our shuttle driver had trouble finding the resort and when he finally did, after turning off the main road and driving down a dusty, dirt road, we walked into what appeared to be another Lao village. Tired and confused, we approached the outdoor reception area only to be greeted with a warm "Sabadee!" and a bow. The young man quickly took our backpacks, sat us down and gave us a chilled towel for our faces and glasses of cold lichee juice to cool us down in the humid air.
Nee, the young lady in charge, arrived and after some initial confusion we realized I had made the booking for the wrong date. We were a day early. But even though the resort was full that night, she offered us to stay one night in a traditional Lao house on the property. Weary from our jouney, we accepted. A young man, Zar, appeared out of nowhere to carry our baggage and lead us to our accomodation for the night... the Ban Lao house.
Up the wooden stairs, opening the door to what can only be described as simple, rustic and oh so cool a space as we'd never seen before. The bamboo floors, the open ceiling with the wooden beams and a bed draped in a blue mosquito net. Sonja turned to me and exclaimed, "Bill, this is wonderful!"
We weren't in Kansas anymore Dorothy.
And so began our stay at what would become the warmest, most welcoming place we have ever stayed in anywhere in the world. The next day we moved into our reserved accomodation. It can only be described as pure comfort and luxury in a setting straight out of a 1940's Samuel Goldwyn movie.
We awoke to the smiles and warm greetings from those working in the gardens trimming the grass, by hand, as we approached the outdoor seating area for breakfast. The chef, busy tending to the fire, greeted us as we sat down for morning breakfast on the banks of the Mekong.
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| Homemade bread |
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| Fresh vegetables from their garden, every day. |
From the moment we walked into the Mekong Resort, we were family. The owner, Henry, a wonderful man from Ohio had built an entire luxury, Lao village with only one purpose in mind. To give back. And to open his heart and show the kindness and warmth of the Lao people. Our stay comprised of long conversations with the staff about their lives and their genuine interest in ours. Every other person staying at the resort extolled us with their overflowing amazement and wonder for this place.
When we sadly had to leave for the airport, the emotion and the tears in Sonja's eyes were real. This place had shown us what peace, serenity and a true love of your fellow man really was. We will never forget On The Mekong Resort in Luang Prabang, Laos.














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